What can I actually do about my wrinkles?

Wrinkles call for different approaches depending on the layer where they form. At your exam, we first check whether it is thinning texture, an expression line or a hollow groove.

Where wrinkles form

Five layers in the face, and more than one place a wrinkle can start.

From the surface down: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous fat, muscle and bone. A wrinkle may form in one of these layers, or several layers may form it together. So the single word 'wrinkle' covers quite different problems.

Cross-section of five stacked materials. From the top: thin paper, felt, cotton, fiber and stone
  1. Epidermis
  2. Dermis
  3. Subcutaneous fat
  4. Muscle
  5. Bone

An AI-generated image used as a metaphor.

The same line can have four different causes.

Fine lines on a sheet of flattened paper

Thinning. As skin thins, fine lines show on the surface first. These are the ones that fade when you stretch the skin by hand.

Creases in paper folded and unfolded many times

Folding. Smiling and frowning crease the same spot again and again. At first the line shows only with expression; later it stays even at rest.

Fabric pulled downward by its own weight

Sagging. When the supporting tissue loosens, the skin moves downward. A groove forms where it settles.

The sunken face of a cushion that has lost its filling

Hollowing. When volume in a deeper layer shrinks, the surface above sinks in. A shadow falls along the hollow edge and reads as a line.

An AI-generated image used as a metaphor.

Before your consultation, check four things in the mirror.

  • Gently spread the skin on both sides of the line with your fingers. Does the line fade, or stay the same?
  • Is it visible at rest, or only when you smile or frown?
  • Does its depth change when you lower and raise your head?
  • Is the area beside the line sunken, casting a shadow?

This check is not a diagnosis. Answers often point to two or more causes, and we look at that combination in person at your exam.

Beneath one nasolabial fold lie muscle, fat, ligaments and bone.

The nasolabial fold is described as a wrinkle formed together by muscle, superficial fat, ligaments, deep fat and the upper jawbone.[1] Even with the same fold, we first look at which layer plays the bigger part.

The frontalis is the main muscle that raises the eyebrows.[2] If heavy eyelids mean you use your forehead to open your eyes, botulinum toxin injections in the forehead can reveal drooping eyelids. So before looking at forehead lines, we also check how you open your eyes.

Approach by depth

Deeper does not mean a stronger treatment.

A different layer simply calls for a different material. At STON Clinic, we sort it this way, from shallow texture to deep hollows.

This order is based on the layer where the wrinkle starts. It may differ from how deep the needle goes.

CureJet device

CureJet · Shallow texture

A method that delivers a solution into the skin as a very fine spray. The doctor decides what goes in.

Juvelook vial

Juvelook Skin · Original · Texture and dermis

An injection with PDLLA that prompts collagen production. The smaller type is used for shallow, thin areas, the larger for deeper, wider ones. If it's your first time and you're unsure, you can start with a small amount and build up gradually.

Belotero Soft box

Belotero Soft · Shallow lines that need height

A hyaluronic acid filler that directly fills an empty area. It is made for shallow lines.

Radiesse box and syringe

Radiesse · Deep grooves

An injectable implant of calcium microspheres (CaHA) in a gel. It is used to fill deep wrinkle grooves. Because it cannot be dissolved, first-timers can start with a small amount and build up gradually.

Juvelook Volume vial

For the deep layer, we consider Radiesse and Juvelook Volume together. What to use, and how much, is decided at your exam.

Juvelook Volume

If sagging looks like the main cause, we don't recommend relying on the injections in this map alone.

Direct filling and collagen stimulation

ItemDirect fillingCollagen stimulation
MaterialBelotero Soft (hyaluronic acid), Radiesse (CaHA)Juvelook (PDLLA)
How it worksThe material itself creates height in the empty area.It uses the response that forms collagen.
When change showsThe filled height is usually checked on the day of treatment.It appears over time. It depends on how hollow and deep the area is, but you'll usually visit twice.
ReversingHyaluronic acid can be dissolved with an enzyme. Radiesse cannot.If you're unsure at first, you can start with small amounts spread over sessions.
Also considerAround the mouth, forehead and nasolabial folds, where blood vessels run, the same caution applies even with a dissolvable material.You start knowing in advance how long the results take to show.

Radiesse fills height, and a collagen-forming response also takes place where it is placed.

CureJet is a delivery method, so which column it falls under depends on the solution used.

In the exam room, we decide four things together.

  1. The layer where the wrinkle starts
  2. Fill directly, or wait for collagen
  3. Whether blood vessels run through the area
  4. What to use, and how much

Product names come after that.

One wrinkle can hold several questions.

Even if you arrive with a product in mind, we'll talk it through again if the exam points to a different layer. Let's start with those questions together.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between fillers and collagen-stimulating injections?

With a filler, the material itself creates height in the empty area. Juvelook, often called a collagen injection, uses PDLLA to draw on the response that forms collagen. Which one suits you is decided at your exam, based on the layer where the wrinkle formed.

How long until I see a difference, and how long does it last?

With direct-filling fillers, the height is usually checked on the day of treatment. Collagen-stimulating methods like Juvelook change over time. How long it lasts depends on the product, the area and the amount used. At your exam, we'll explain based on your area.

How many visits will I need, and how is the cost set?

It depends on how hollow and deep the area is, but you'll usually visit twice. The cost varies with the material and amount used. When you get a quote, ask how many visits it is based on.

Does it hurt a lot?

How it feels varies by person and area. If it's your first time and you're unsure, you can start with a small amount and build up gradually. We also decide together on ways to ease discomfort before treatment.

Is there anything to watch for after treatment?

Bruising or swelling may occur at the injection site. So if you have an important event coming up, mention it first when booking. Blood vessels run through the mouth area, forehead and nasolabial folds, so the same caution applies with any material.

If I come with a product in mind, can I get exactly that?

We hear the name you chose first. If the exam shows the wrinkle comes from a different layer, we'll explain why and talk it over again. You can decide after hearing the explanation.

Where is STON Clinic located?

9F, Main Tower, Lotte Hotel Seoul, 30 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul. You can check the map through the directions link on this page.

  1. [1] Nasolabial fold anatomy — PMC8438644
  2. [2] Frontalis compensation — Headache, doi:10.1111/head.13074

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